People who dislike London will welcome it as an avatar for all that’s wrong with the bloated, metropolitan elite-germinating capital: at a reported cost of £200m, it’s a hosanna to consumption, to pin-striped hustlers, to bears and bulls and money, money, money. And blockbuster it most assuredly is, this Edwin “Ned” Lutyens-designed, grade 1-listed former Midland Bank headquarters beside the Bank of England. So it’s breakfast at “Parisian-style” Cafe Sou, little more than a takeaway counter with high stools, created with food writer Rachel Khoo. Consider me almost comically unimpressed: soft-boiled egg served fridge cold (“Cold soft-boiled egg!” hollers my award-winning food writer pal. It’s a bit like a cross between Harrods food hall and Vegas.

Source: The Guardian July 21, 2017 12:56 UTC